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Narva memoir

The Cold War had its own places where the worlds on either side of the Iron Curtain came into direct contact. Over time, some acquired an iconic status. Today’s “Cold War 2.0” will also one day pass into history. It will be remembered through places such as the Narva river.

September 11, 2026 - Nikodem Szczygłowski - Issue 5 2026MagazineStories and ideas

A view from Narva, the Estonian border town. In the background stands the Ivangorod Fortress, on the Russian side of the Narva river. In the foreground the bridge connecting Russia with Estonia, currently fortified with dragon’s teeth and fencing. Photo: Nikodem Szczygłowski

“Putin is a war criminal,” reads a banner displayed by the Narva Museum on the walls of the 14th-century Hermann Castle in Narva, an Estonian city which is barely 100 metres from Russian territory across the river. On the opposite bank, at the foot of the Ivangorod Fortress in Russia’s Leningrad Oblast, a stage is erected for the May 9th celebrations, facing the Estonian shore. From there, the Victory Day parade in Moscow is broadcast alongside performances by Russian pop artists brought to Ivangorod especially for the occasion.

Once a pearl of northern baroque

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