Georgia. The cradle of viticulture
Georgia has over 525 indigenous grape varieties, which is roughly 1/6th of the world’s total grape species. Approximately 40 varieties are officially grown for commercial viticulture production. While Georgian wine has been known locally for centuries, its global consumption is a relatively recent phenomenon.
Georgia lies in the oldest wine-producing region in the world, with Georgian viticulture tracing back to over 8,000 years of grape cultivation and winemaking. While excavating a Neolithic village just 50 kilometres south of Tbilisi in the south-eastern region called Kvemo Kartli, archaeologists found prehistoric winemaking artefacts, specifically, clay vessel pieces containing residues of the world’s oldest wine dating back to the 6th millennium BC.
February 15, 2022 -
Natalia Mosashvili
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Issue 1-2 2022MagazineStories and ideas
The famous clay vessels, called “kvevris”, are used for the fermentation, storage and aging of traditional Georgian wine. They resemble large amphorae and are buried in the ground of wine cellars. This provides a chance to maintain a stable temperature throughout the year especially during hot temperatures, without needing to use preservatives.
The size of a kvevri wine vessel ranges from 20 to 10,000 litres, yet the most popular ones are between 1,000-1,500 litres. The artisanal hand-crafted work and the quality of the clay chosen plays a crucial role. The kvevris are made from clay from specific areas which are rich in minerals, which significantly impacts the mineral content and aromatic richness of the wine. Kvevris are made only in a few villages of Georgia. For millennia, artisanal families carefully passed down the traditional art of handcrafting kvevri from generation to generation.
The process
The process of Georgian vinification involves crushing grapes and placing the grape juice, along with the grape skins, stems, and pips (collectively known as chacha), into clean kvevris lined with beeswax, which is then sealed. The entire wine-making process takes place within the kvevri. The juice is left to ferment into wine for at least five to six months before being decanted and bottled. The pomace – a mash of pips, skins and stalks – which remains is called chacha and is distilled into brandy, which is also called “chacha”. The empty kvevri is then washed, sterilised and re-used for the upcoming harvest.
In 2013 the kvevri and the traditional Georgian method of winemaking were inscribed by UNESCO to the list of the world’s intangible cultural heritage. Georgian wine is deeply embedded in its culture and is considered a part of Georgian identity and customs. Alongside cultivating vines and creating unique winemaking technology, Georgians also developed a great love towards the “divine-liquid” by including it in every feast and celebration, both happy or sad. Together with a tradition of toasting, the wine has become an inseparable and very core part of the Georgian “supra” (a traditional Georgian feast).
This fond admiration for wine can be found everywhere – in art, architecture, polyphonic singing, ceremonies, traditions and even church façades which are often adorned with curling vine scrolls, arabesques and foliate motifs. Many gold, silver and bronze artefacts from the third and second millennia BC also have imprints of the vine. Numerous ornamented wine cups have been found in ancient Georgian tombs. The state museum collection also holds a bronze statue from the seventh century BC which was discovered during an archaeological excavation in the city of Vani, the statue is called “Tamada” and it symbolises the oldest “Toast Master”, this very tradition continues until today and is presented during every feast. That is also why many etymologists consider the modern generic word “wine” to be derived from the ancient Georgian equivalent – “Gvino”.
From ancient to modern times
Throughout the centuries world-famous personas and travellers were charmed and fascinated by the taste of distinctive Georgian wine, among them were Marco Polo, Alexander Dumas and John Steinbeck. One of the first is considered Apollonius of Rhodes – the ancient Greek author who in his epic poem Argonautica (written around 295 BC and which tells the story of the mythical of the voyage of Jason and the Argonauts to retrieve the Golden Fleece from the remote Kingdom of Colchis – present-day western Georgia) praises Georgia’s tradition of vine growing and wine drinking.
During the last decade, Georgia has become a distinctively attractive destination for oenophiles, sommeliers, wine-makers, and simply for wine lovers from all over the world. People come here to explore local wineries, vineyards, traditional winemaking technology and most importantly to taste the characteristics and spectrum of Georgian wines. In other words, they come to simply immerse themselves in authentic local wine culture. Visitors explore both relatively smaller family-owned wine cellars, as well as bigger “chateaus” or wine factories which utilise both Georgian and European winemaking techniques. With a continuous and uninterrupted tradition of viticulture and winemaking, Georgia has gained the status of “the cradle of wine” and recent worldwide fame, which was quite difficult and challenging to achieve.
Georgia has over 525 indigenous grape varieties, which is roughly 1/6th of the world’s total grape species. Approximately 40 varieties are officially grown for commercial viticulture production. Although, Georgian wines have always been the well-known and in demand in the Soviet space, the period of transition after the independence of the country was not an easy one; especially in the spring of 2006 when Russia imposed an embargo on Georgian wine, mineral waters and agriculture products. At that time Russia was the largest export market for Georgian wine (this ban was lifted six years later in 2012). As a result, the country was forced to diversify its target markets and promote Georgian wines globally.
Distinctive Georgian wine characteristics lead some Georgian wines to worldwide recognition in international expositions. Dozens of Georgian wine companies have won gold, silver, and bronze medals at the International Wine Challenge, the world’s most influential wine competition. Georgian wines were on display at major world fora and exhibitions. Therefore, the interests and demand have significantly increased during the last decade, thanks in part to these diversification efforts.
Today, Georgia competes with leading wine-making countries in Europe and the world, which imposes different challenges to local winemakers and producers. Many of them are recovering unique and rare species of Georgian grape varieties, or cultivating well-known endemic varieties, making them into wine with the traditional method. Some have adopted classic European technology and try to produce new types of wines which are characterised by a distinctive flavour and texture.
According to the National Wine Agency of Georgia, 421 Georgian companies exported a record high rate of wine to 62 countries around the world. Between January and November 2021as many as 96,150,065 bottles were exported, which is a historical record high since the independence of Georgia in 1991. The amount of exported wine has increased by 14 per cent compared to the same period last year and the revenue from the exported wine reached 222 million US dollars, four per cent more than the same period of the last year. All trends indicate the Georgian wine is now a global export competitor, which means one does not necessarily need to go to Georgia to taste its wine – however, it is always better to visit and see the place where it is made.
Natalia Mosashvili is a freelance writer, researcher and cultural guide. She has worked on various social and humanitarian projects, including projects with IDPs in a post-conflict zone, the “Tbilisi Migrants Stories” project and a reintegration programme for emigrants returning to Georgia.
