Dyed Hair and Pierced Eyebrows: Music and Politics in Western Ukraine

A man with a rather large bushy grey moustache plonked three glasses of thin brackish coffee down on the fold-away table of our railway carriage and demanded 12 hryvnia. It wasn't so much the clink and crash of the glasses as they hit the table which surprised us the most, but rather the hard look on the man's face as his arm swung down releasing the cups, almost throwing them down, and the way he spoke as he asked for the money: short and succinct, to the point. 

Hayden Berry, an editor with New Eastern Europe, recalls a recent trip to a music festival in Western Ukraine.

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